How to Write a Bill of Sale for a Boat (2026 Guide)
A boat changes hands the moment money and keys do — but the document that proves it actually happened is the bill of sale. Skip it, fudge it, or fill it out wrong and you can find yourself fighting over who owed what when an engine fails, a lien surfaces, or the tax office sends a bill two years later. It's a one-page document, but it carries real legal weight, and writing it correctly takes about fifteen minutes once you know what belongs on it.
This guide walks through every line of a proper boat bill of sale, the clauses that protect you, the differences by state and boat size, and the mistakes that turn a clean sale into a dispute.
What a Boat Bill of Sale Actually Does
A bill of sale is the legal record that ownership of a boat transferred from one party to another on a specific date for a specific price. It does three jobs at once:
- Proves the transaction happened. It's your evidence of who sold what to whom, and when.
- Documents the price. This matters for sales tax, for capital gains or loss, and for insurance valuation.
- Defines the terms. Most importantly, it states the condition the boat was sold in — usually "as-is" — which limits the seller's liability after the deal closes.
It is not the same as a title or registration. The title proves ownership over time; the bill of sale proves the moment of transfer. You typically need both to register the boat in the buyer's name. Think of the bill of sale as the receipt and the title as the deed.
For a fuller picture of every document involved in a sale, see our guide to the paperwork you need to sell a boat. This article zooms in on the single most important piece of it.
When you absolutely need one
You need a written bill of sale any time money and ownership change hands — private sale, broker sale, even a gift or trade. Most states legally require one to register a boat purchased from a private seller. Even where it's not strictly mandatory, doing the deal on a handshake is how disputes start. If the boat is worth more than the cash in your wallet, write it down.
The Core Information Every Bill of Sale Needs
Before you reach for a template, gather the facts. A bill of sale is only as good as the details on it. Get any of the identifying numbers wrong and the document may not hold up at the DMV or in court.
Identify the parties
- Full legal name of the seller (and co-owner, if the boat is jointly titled)
- Full legal name of the buyer
- Mailing address and phone number for both
- Driver's license or government ID number for each party (some states require this)
Identify the boat
This is where most errors creep in. Copy these directly from the title and the hull, not from memory:
- Hull Identification Number (HIN) — the 12-character VIN-equivalent stamped on the starboard transom. Verify it matches the title exactly.
- Make and model (e.g., Boston Whaler 270 Dauntless)
- Year built
- Length (overall, in feet)
- Boat type and hull material (fiberglass center console, etc.)
- State registration number (the "bow numbers," e.g., FL 1234 AB) and/or USCG documentation number if the boat is federally documented
- Title number
Identify the engines and major equipment
Engines often carry more value than the hull on a used boat, and they have their own serial numbers and titles in some states. List each one:
- Engine make, model, horsepower, and serial number
- Number of engines and whether outboard, inboard, or I/O
- A trailer, if included, with its VIN, year, and make — a trailer is a separately titled vehicle in most states and may need its own bill of sale
Including a short inventory of what conveys with the sale — electronics, dinghy, safety gear, spare props — prevents the "where's the chartplotter?" argument on handover day.
The Money Terms: Price, Deposit, and Payment
The financial section is short but decisive. Spell it out precisely.
- Total purchase price, written in both numerals and words ($42,500 and "forty-two thousand five hundred dollars") to prevent alteration.
- Deposit or earnest money already paid, and the date.
- Balance due at closing and the form of payment (wire transfer, cashier's check, cash).
- Date of sale — the day ownership actually transfers.
A word on understating the price: buyers sometimes ask sellers to write a lower number to dodge sales tax. Don't. It's tax fraud, it exposes both of you, and it backfires on the buyer if there's later an insurance total-loss claim or a dispute over value. Write the real number.
If the deal runs through escrow rather than a face-to-face cash exchange, the bill of sale is signed at closing once funds clear. Our explainer on how yacht escrow and closing works covers that process in detail.
"As-Is" vs. Warranty: The Clause That Protects You Most
This single clause causes more post-sale fights than anything else, so understand it before you sign.
As-is, where-is
Nearly every used private-party boat sale is "as-is, where-is, with all faults." This means the buyer accepts the boat in its current condition and the seller makes no promises about its future performance. Once the deal closes, a blown impeller or a soft deck is the buyer's problem.
For sellers, this clause is essential — it's your protection against being chased for repairs months later. Sample language:
"The boat is sold AS-IS, WHERE-IS, with all faults and without any warranty, express or implied, including any warranty of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. Buyer has had the opportunity to inspect the boat and accepts it in its present condition."
For buyers, "as-is" is exactly why you get a survey and sea trial before signing, not after. Once you sign an as-is bill of sale, you've forfeited most of your recourse. If you're buying used, read how to buy a used yacht without getting burned and book a surveyor first.
When a warranty applies
A dealer selling a new or certified boat may include a limited warranty, and some private sellers will warrant specific points ("seller warrants the boat is free of liens"). Keep warranty language narrow and specific. Vague promises invite litigation.
The free-and-clear / lien clause
Whether or not anything else is warranted, the bill of sale should state that the seller has the legal right to sell and that the boat is free of liens and encumbrances:
"Seller warrants that they are the lawful owner of the boat, that it is free from all liens and encumbrances, and that they have full right and authority to sell it."
If there is a loan on the boat, the lien must be paid off and released at closing — usually the payoff is handled through the buyer's funds, with the lender mailing the title and lien release. Never take delivery of a boat with an open lien on the assumption the seller will clear it later.
Signatures, Witnesses, and Notarization
A bill of sale isn't binding until it's properly signed. Requirements vary by state, so this is the part to check locally.
Who signs
- All titled owners must sign as sellers. If a boat is titled to "John AND Mary Smith," both signatures are required. If it's "John OR Mary," usually one suffices — but get both to be safe.
- The buyer signs to accept the terms (some states only require the seller's signature, but a buyer signature strengthens the document).
- Print names beneath each signature and add the date next to each.
Witnesses and notary
Some states require the seller's signature to be notarized for the buyer to register the boat — Florida and a handful of others are strict about this. Others ask for one or two witnesses. Even where it's optional, notarizing a higher-value sale is cheap insurance: a notary verifies identity and makes the document far harder to challenge. For any boat worth tens of thousands of dollars, get it notarized.
How many copies
Make at least two originals — one for the buyer, one for the seller — and have both signed. The buyer needs their original to register and title the boat; the seller keeps theirs as proof they no longer own it (and no longer owe tax, registration, or liability on it). Keep your copy for several years.
State Rules, Documented Boats, and Sales Tax
The bill of sale itself is fairly universal, but the surrounding requirements differ depending on where you are and how the boat is titled.
State-specific forms
Many states publish their own bill of sale form (often through the DMV, Department of Natural Resources, or Fish & Wildlife agency that handles boat registration). Where an official form exists, use it — it's pre-formatted to satisfy that state's registration office. A few states don't title boats below a certain length or horsepower at all, in which case the bill of sale and registration card carry the full weight of proving ownership.
Check the requirements in both the seller's state and the buyer's state if they differ, since the buyer registers the boat where they live or keep it.
Coast Guard documented boats
Larger boats — typically over five net tons, which is roughly 26 feet and up — may be federally documented with the U.S. Coast Guard instead of state-titled. For these, the transfer uses a USCG Bill of Sale (Form CG-1340) and an Abstract of Title, and the buyer files for a new Certificate of Documentation. A documented boat still needs a bill of sale, but it's the federal form, and you'll want to confirm the documentation is current and lien-free via an abstract of title before closing.
Sales and use tax
Most states charge sales or use tax on a private boat sale — often 3% to 8% of the purchase price, collected when the buyer registers. A few states have no boat sales tax, and some cap it. The price on your bill of sale is what the tax is calculated on, which is yet another reason to state it honestly. As the buyer, budget for this; it's a real line item on top of the purchase price and frequently catches first-timers off guard. Our breakdown of hidden costs of yacht ownership covers taxes and the other expenses that show up after the sale.
A Boat Bill of Sale Template
Here's a clean, fill-in-the-blanks structure you can adapt. Replace the brackets and delete anything that doesn't apply. When in doubt, start from your state's official form.
BILL OF SALE FOR A BOAT
Date of Sale: ______________________
SELLER
Name: __________________________________
Address: _______________________________
Phone: _________ ID/DL #: _____________
BUYER
Name: __________________________________
Address: _______________________________
Phone: _________ ID/DL #: _____________
BOAT DESCRIPTION
Make: __________ Model: __________ Year: ______
Length (overall): ______ ft Hull material: ________
Hull ID Number (HIN): _______________________
State Reg. # / USCG Doc #: ___________________
Title Number: ________________________________
ENGINE(S)
1) Make/Model: ________ HP: ____ Serial #: ________
2) Make/Model: ________ HP: ____ Serial #: ________
TRAILER (if included)
Make: ______ Year: ____ VIN: _____________________
INCLUDED EQUIPMENT
______________________________________________
______________________________________________
PURCHASE PRICE
Total: $__________ (______________________ dollars)
Deposit paid: $__________ on ____________
Balance due at closing: $__________
Form of payment: _____________________________
TERMS
The boat is sold AS-IS, WHERE-IS, with all faults
and without warranty of any kind, express or implied.
Buyer has inspected the boat and accepts it in its
present condition.
Seller warrants lawful ownership, free of all liens
and encumbrances, and full authority to sell.
SIGNATURES
Seller: ________________ Print: ________ Date: ____
Seller: ________________ Print: ________ Date: ____
Buyer: ________________ Print: ________ Date: ____
[Notary / Witness block as required by state]
Keep the language plain. A bill of sale doesn't need legal jargon to be enforceable — it needs accurate facts and clear terms.
Common Mistakes That Void or Weaken a Bill of Sale
Most problems come down to carelessness rather than anything complicated.
- Wrong HIN or serial numbers. A single transposed digit can stall registration. Copy from the title and the hull, then double-check.
- Leaving out engine serial numbers. On a repowered boat especially, you want a record of exactly which engines you bought.
- Understating the price. Tax fraud, and it can void the document's usefulness for insurance and resale.
- Missing a co-owner's signature. If two names are on the title, get two signatures.
- No "as-is" clause. Sellers expose themselves to claims; this is the cheapest protection available.
- Not clearing a lien before closing. Verify the boat is free and clear, or handle the payoff at closing so the lien is released.
- Only making one copy. Both parties need a signed original.
- Forgetting the trailer. It's a separate titled asset in most states and may need its own document.
- No date. The date of sale anchors tax liability, insurance, and ownership. Never leave it blank.
If you handle these correctly, a private sale is genuinely straightforward — and you avoid the loose ends that bring buyers and sellers back into contact months later under unhappy circumstances.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does a boat bill of sale need to be notarized?
It depends on your state. Some, like Florida, require the seller's signature to be notarized before the buyer can register the boat; others accept witnesses or no notary at all. Even where it's optional, notarizing a sale worth tens of thousands of dollars is inexpensive protection against later disputes over identity or authenticity.
Is a bill of sale the same as a title?
No. A title proves ongoing legal ownership; a bill of sale documents the moment of transfer and the price. You usually need both to register a boat in your name — the signed-over title plus the bill of sale as your receipt.
Can I write my own bill of sale, or do I need a lawyer?
You can absolutely write your own. A bill of sale doesn't require legal training — it needs accurate boat details, clear money terms, an as-is clause, and proper signatures. Use your state's official form where one exists. A lawyer is only worth involving for unusually large or complicated sales.
What's the difference between "as-is" and a warranty?
"As-is" means the buyer accepts the boat in its current condition with no promises about future performance — the standard for private used-boat sales. A warranty means the seller guarantees something specific (common with dealers and new boats). As-is protects the seller; it's why buyers should survey and sea-trial before signing.
Do I need a bill of sale for a documented boat?
Yes — but use the federal form. Coast Guard documented boats transfer via a USCG Bill of Sale (Form CG-1340), and the buyer files for a new Certificate of Documentation. Confirm the documentation is current and lien-free with an abstract of title before closing.
How many copies of the bill of sale do I need?
At least two signed originals — one for the buyer, one for the seller. The buyer needs theirs to register and title the boat; the seller keeps theirs as proof of the sale date and that they no longer own (or owe tax and liability on) the boat. Keep your copy for several years.
A clean bill of sale is the simplest way to make sure a deal stays done. Get the numbers right, state the price honestly, include the as-is clause, and collect every required signature — then both sides can walk away confident. When you're ready to find your next boat or list the one you're selling, browse boats for sale on Yachtlista and start the deal on the right paperwork.
